Magnifique soirée at the Cedar Rooms

When it comes to fine dining, the line between food and art becomes blurry; and the menu at the Cedar Rooms in the Farnham Estate, as served, certainly falls into the category of deliciously edible art.

But it is so much more than that. An evening spent in the Cedar rooms, with its lavish décor, relaxing ambiance, fine food and wine, not to mention good company, truly delivers a special experience.

Cavan, as a county, is blessed with many fine eateries. There are countless restaurants and pubs you can list off as plating up good grub with a friendly smile. And who doesn’t like a nice steak with all the trimmings?!

But, if you are after something unique, an unforgettable culinary experience, for that special occasion or treat, then book a table at the Cedar Rooms. To get the most out of the experience, you need to trust your palate and your senses, listen to the waiting staff and the stories and inspiration behind the various dishes, and just go on the journey with them!

Executive chef at Farnham Estate is Philippe Farineau who joined the team last September. Originally from Paris, he has worked in some of the best hotels and restaurants all over Ireland for the past 25 years. He comes to Cavan from Ashford Castle where he was executive head chef for seven years.

Speaking to the Celt, he says it’s a “pleasure” to be here and is bowled over by the beauty and history of the Farnham Estate and the quality of local produce. Chef Philippe is trying to reflect that in the menus and dishes he is creating.

The Winter Collection menu, as sampled (or savoured) by this Celt reporter, features seven courses with the theme of colour and the seasons throughout. And, for vegetarians and vegans, there is a plant based alternative menu.

Chef Philippe explains it best: “Cedar Rooms is an experience of the Farnham Estate following the seasons. What we try to achieve is for the guest to enjoy a dish, which will contain some of the local produce from the foraging from the estate. Each dish has the colour of the season we are in.”

For example the ‘Orange’ course comprises the warmth of organic carrot, scallop tartare marinated in turmeric, orange vanilla and Kilkenny Trout Caviar.

‘Snow White’ involves the ice-cold freshness of a parsnip sorbet with apples from the estate and yuzu. You get the idea.

The presentation of some of the dishes was quite theatrical. The ‘Prune’ course consisted of organic beetroot with smoked ‘velvet cloud’ yoghurt and foraged mushrooms with estate pine oil. The big reveal on this dish unleashed a plume of smoke or ‘velvet cloud’, quite the French ‘Voilà’ - invoking all the senses. Personally, I am a big fan of beetroot and, indeed mushrooms, and I found this combination of flavours bold and delightful.

The ‘Cream’ course included quail, hen of the wood mushroom and smoked onion soubise. It was delicious – so succulent and flavoursome.

It was followed by ‘Berry Red’ – my favourite course of the night. It featured County Clare wild venison ‘Grand Veneur’ with preserved currants and salsify. I was a bit cautious about the venison, not having eaten it for 20 odd years due to a previous bad experience in Denmark, but I am officially converted.

It was so rich and tender and melted in your mouth and the jus was the perfect complement. It was served with truffle potato mash.

You guessed it – the dessert course named ‘Brown’ - involved chocolate much to this chocoholic’s delight. It was a gorgeous combination with the poached pear and the crispy praline – a real pièce de resistance.

As appealing as the colours and presentation of each dish are to the eye, the flavours of each dish tantalises the tastebuds - culminating in a culinary orgasm of sorts.

What better way to wash it all down than with a French coffee – a salute to the chef himself.

You don’t find yourself getting full and the anticipation of the next course is very much part of the experience. By the end of the meal, you feel entirely satisfied – as though you have been treated to a truly cultural and culinary experience.

The diner feels most relaxed, certainly never rushed, in a supper club type environment.

The Cedar Rooms is named after one of Farnham’s oldest trees, the magnificent Cedar of Lebanon that stands proudly on the estate’s front lawn. The restaurant itself sits within the old cut-stone building that originally housed the estate managers.

The restaurant is set to unveil its Spring menu shortly – expect colours like green and in-season produce such as lamb. Chef Philippe and the team are in the process of hiring and training new staff who should be in place by March.

“We are trying to follow the seasons, to keep in touch with mother nature,” explains the chef.

For Philippe, “consistency and quality” are key to what he is trying to achieve at Cedar Rooms and Farnham Estate.

Where possible, he uses herbs and vegetables grown on the estate, as well as the finest ingredients from local producers, artisan suppliers and foragers.

The flavours of the dishes created are enhanced and elevated by herbs, spices and ingredients from all over Ireland and the world – with a French influence coming through.

Philippe is thrilled that the staff understand, share and embrace his vision. Indeed they are knowledgeable and enthusiastic about all the courses and offer good advice on the best wines to pair with the dishes.

Like the dishes he so carefully, creatively and delicately puts together, Philippe and the team are trying to grow Cedar Rooms.

“We are trying to put a name on Farnham Estate as a food destination,” he says.

But Philippe believes it’s better to take “baby steps” and keep the focus on caring for the guests and delivering “something special” for them.

“It’s a pleasure to be here. I hope the guests enjoy what we do… it’s all about having an experience.”

For a menu that is grounded in the history and habitat of the estate, the experience is out of this world. No doubt, like its Spring menu, the Cedar Rooms will blossom into a food destination of high repute.

Bon appetite!