The Good Life: Visiting Ireland’s most southerly point (and pint)
Up until now, Clare was my favorite part of the country. Now, West Cork is a fierce contender. After spending four days in Crookhaven with university friends, I can safely say it is one of the most stunning places I have been to, both in Ireland and abroad.
The plans were made weeks ago, while in the middle of finishing up assignments. It was something to look forward to and a final goodbye before each of us parted ways. From out of this world scenery to friendly locals and fabulous food, Crookhaven should be top of the list for anybody to holiday at home this year. The trip truly reminded me of how lucky we are to live in this country. Some friends from abroad even texted me to see what part of Ireland I was in.
Crookhaven is among the most beautiful places I have ever seen. The village itself is serene and traditional in a picturesque setting along the coast. Each time I turned my head I was more and more impressed. The village was a great base for the rest of our travels, which were all only a 15-minute drive away. We visited Brow Head, which is Ireland’s most southerly point and in my opinion is a 'must see' if you are in the area. It was breathtaking with stone walls and houses, beaches, blue waves and green hills all around. The phrase “if these walls could talk” was echoed a few times and it was so true. I felt like I was walking through a postcard. The sounds of the water, the wind and seagulls whipped through the air. During our time we did have to contend with some rough rain showers, especially being along the coast. On an Irish holiday, this is inevitable therefore all I would recommend is to bring rain gear and keep going. This was the mentality upon visiting Mizen Head, which is the most south westerly point along the Wild Atlantic Way. To walk to the edge of the cliff was €6 for a student ticket and €7.50 for an adult ticket, which really doesn’t break the bank when you get to take in the views and the history of the area while walking with safety barriers all around you.
I don’t think anyone of any age group would go there and be disappointed, even the weather didn’t dampen our spirits. The only thing I would be mindful of is small windy roads, which I believe are packed with tourists in the summer months. While there, we even had some cows walking alongside us.
If seafood if your thing, then West Cork is your haven. On route to Crookhaven, we called into Schull Harbour Hotel where I got a prawn linguine. I was very impressed, but at that stage I didn’t know what was yet to come.
O’Sullivans Bar acted as our base, it was only a two-minute drive from the house we stayed in. While there, I had seafood chowder for the first time. I had always wanted to try it but had been too afraid, this one was worth the wait. The salmon-colored liquid had a creamy taste with pieces of fish and vegetable mixed through. It’s their own recipe and, for me, O’Sullivans nailed it. I paired it with a smoked salmon sandwich - a perfect combo. The sun allowed us to eat on the benches outside and we chatted while watching the sea.
We also went to Nottage’s Bar & Restaurant for an evening meal on our last night. As a soda bread fan, I was impressed when I saw garlic and spinach soda bread sitting on the table. It’s green colour was highly unusual and I couldn’t wait to try it. It exceeded my expectations, and I hope to have my own version in the oven very soon. Next came a crab lasagna starter. I never would have thought of combining the two, however the soft creamy lasagna, combined with the subtle saltiness of the crab, was a hit among everyone.
As a main I had duck and for dessert I got Belgian chocolate mousse with pistachio. I had been prepared for how beautiful this restaurant was, but it blew all of my expectations out of the water. The food, location, ambience and service were five star.
The highlight of the trip to West Cork was the people. The locals of Crookhaven are so friendly and only too willing to chat. The owner of O’Sullivans Bar, Der, who runs a family pub, was so welcoming and friendly. I would highly recommend Crookhaven as a staycation destination. The O’Sullivans will really make you feel at home while enjoying Ireland’s most southerly pint.
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