Drumlane Abbey, Milltown Co. Cavan

A passion for history and archaeology

In this week's Times Past, historian Jonathan Smyth follows up on a column on Drumlane Abbey and includes information from 1857...

Recently, I looked at The McGoverns of Drumlane from a document which Fr Gerry Comiskey kindly provided. This week, we return again to Drumlane and its abbey, which is a fine example of a monastic settlement and one of which as a county we can be proud.

Like it or not, Ireland is after all, the island of Saints and Scholars. Drumlane Abbey’s noble founder, by tradition was said to be St Mogue. He was one of those spiritual warriors of the early church whose message was fearlessly carried from Cavan to Wexford, and then across the channel to the Welsh. Eventually, on his return to Cavan, he was believed to have founded the beautiful monastic settlement at Drumlane. However, later evaluations of historical data would seem to suggest another saintly figure to be the most likely founder. His name is St Columba, also known as Colmcille, and he is attributed with having founded the abbey in the 6th Century.

One Autumn evening, a few years ago, I had the privilege of visiting Drumlane as darkness began to fall. During a very interesting discussion, in the company of Deacon Damian Kivlehan and Thomas Small, we gazed at the old church building and tower. In the distance we saw people heading our way in the fading light. A pleasant conversation ensued, and after goodbyes were said, Damian said to me, “Did you see who that was? You’ve heard the song ‘Charlie from Cootehill’, well that’s your man that sang and wrote it!”

After rounding off our chat about Ian Corrigan, we left the Abbey, as our surroundings gave way to complete darkness while driving back to Belturbet.

1857 Journal

A couple of weeks ago, I found an essay on Drumlane in the Ulster Journal of Archaeology, that was published in 1857. But, to my annoyance, the author is not named. On the plus side, it tells the reader that Drumlane, otherwise called Druim-Leathán, is the ‘broad ridge or hill … doubling as the name of a townland and parish in the barony of Loughtee, where the ruins of a church and remains of a round tower’ are ‘situated near to the village of Milltown’, about three miles from Belturbet. The journal documents an early abbott named Duibhinsi Ua Faircheallaigh (O’Farrelly) who died in 1025 AD. A fire is reputed to have burned down Drumlane Abbey in 1246 AD, as noted in the Annals of the Four Masters. The O’Farrelly clan’s association with the early abbey is of significance because they were the ‘hereditary coarbs of St Mogue’.

Another interesting point, is the reference made to ‘the great church of Drumlane’ and the author’s later assessment that ‘it seems doubtful’ whether the remnants of the abbey that still stand are the same buildings from 1484 AD. A theory is posed, suggesting that the round tower may have been built as an anchorite cell, the building of which could have begun under Brian O’Farrelly, shortly before his death, circa 1484 AD.

By 1857, only 40 feet of the round tower was standing, and within its round walls lay debris containing the lower jawbone of an ox and fragments of deer, goat, and dog bones. All the debris was cleared from inside the tower noted the writer.

A copy of this journal is available to view at Johnston Central Library, in Cavan Town.

A passionate interest

John Geary recently got in touch, to tell me about his personal passion for the history and archaeology of Drumlane and asked, if I might write about his interest in the Abbey. He reckoned that ‘almost 1,200 years ago, the ancient monks of the Abbey,’ may have ‘retreated underground for fear of the Vikings, who were raiding the monasteries’, and that they (the Vikings) would likely have ‘sailed up along the River Erne and across its lakes’.

Beaming with enthusiasm, he described how in ‘later centuries’ the monastery, and a reputed town named ‘Drumleachan’ said to be ‘on the same site were raided.’ He added that The Anglo-Celt in 1898 published an unusual article on a mysterious long tunnel that lay beneath the sacred site of Drumlane, but he says, nowadays there is sadly no trace of any ‘secret passage.’

Illuminating talk

John said that his fascination for the place began in July 2019, after a tour of the abbey with Cumann Seanchais Bhreifne, which resulted in him being bitten by what he called a ‘discovery bug.’ On that occasion, Suzanne Gunn gave what this newspaper described as an ‘illuminating talk on the history of Drumlane’ as she drew on records she had discovered while researching ‘alongside the late Fr. Hugh O’Reilly.’ Afterwards, further archaeological revelations were made by the Drumlane History and Heritage Group when they carried out an extensive study of the site in 2021. John Geary was keen to point out his efforts in producing a map, ‘a brief history and a template for a possible visitor guide’. He was spurred on, he says, by the encouragement received, from the editor of the ‘Archaeology Ireland Magazine’, and others, and the inspiration of his day out with Cumann Seanchais Bhreifne. He went on to talk about an article he wrote for Archaeology Ireland and said he hoped it will be published soon.

John Geary finished by saying: ‘You know, the internet is full of stories and photos about the great church and round tower of Drumlane, but everyone seems to be forgetting about the very ancient overall monastic site. Nobody can deny, but that there is physical evidence on the ground here of an ancient site, from at least point 1 (on John’s map), at the new cemetery to the north, as far as point 5 to the south (crannóg site).’ He followed up with, ‘I think that it’s of huge benefit to tourism’, and then added ‘if it was to be developed, it could even include a replica crannóg for the visitors’.

Tours of Drumlane Abbey are provided by Oliver Brady and Aidan Brady, both of whom are Geopark Guides. For further information, or to arrange a tour in the coming year, see: https://thisiscavan.ie/things-to-do/heritage/

Happy New Year

Credit must go to all those in the county, whose collective enthusiasm helps with the preservation, and research into the rich history and heritage of places such as Drumlane. And, as we begin a new year, may the good works of the ancients, be an inspiration to all the good works of today.

Athbhliain faoi shéan is faoi mhaise daoibh.

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