‘A nice bit of trekking for you’
Photographer Hu O'Reilly continues his popular series 'Chasing the Magical 365' in his quest to record and photograph all 365 lakes in County Cavan...
I've received quite a few messages from people who have an interest in Cavan's lakes since I started this project. One message was about a pair of lakes on a mountain in west Cavan: 'This is one of two lakes as you pass from Benbrack on Glan gap across to Cuilcagh... When you’re on Benbrack and look back towards Leitrim there’s a lake called Derrynananta. It’ll be a nice bit of trekking for you.'
Heeding the recommendation, I did some more research about possible routes. There are a few options but I always like approaching a lake from the south if possible, as the sun will be at my back and the light is much better for photography.
It's a 4 or 5km round trip from where I park my car. Up along an old path and to a planting of trees. My maps tell me there's a path through the forest, but in reality, it's overgrown and with fallen trees the old path is blocked. So, I skirt along the edge of the treeline, hopping over wet marshy ground, as you would expect in early October. Avoiding the big puddles is a slow slog.
A heavy shower slows me and I take some shelter from the trees. There are nice views down over the lakes near Ballyconnell - Brackley, Bunerky and Lakefield. As I continue the journey, I meet the skeleton of an unfortunate sheep, and take a photograph of it with the mountain in the background.
Up ahead is Benbrack mountain, and it looks quite daunting. The summit is almost 500 metres above sea level and a steep 150 metre climb from my current position, with no defined path - I've just got to take the climb head-on.
The steep mountain side is covered in gorse bush, which I have to grip to help my climb. I pass by a waterfall high above on the cliff face. I remind myself how lucky I am, to be experiencing this natural beauty in my home county while working on this project.
The climb is challenging - and I'm sure there are easier ways to get up this mountain. Upon reaching the summit I should be just a few hundred metres from Derrynananta Lough. The landscape is surreal. It's mostly large boggy areas, but with giant crevices down to what looks like a hard limestone base.
I remembered another recent email that I received warning me to watch out for bog holes - and right now this seems like good advice! I had thought that by reaching the summit of Benbrack mountain I would have the hard slog finished, but it's still tough terrain as the drops and climbs between bog and rock base must be over six feet in places.
I slowly move along, then suddenly, a beautiful blue lake appears. I wonder if it might be a mirage - like the desert traveller might see in the Sahara, but it's the real deal - Derrynananta Lough on Benbrack mountain.
Over two hours since I set off and there it is. Well worth the wait and the work to get here. The sunlight behind me lights the lake well for photos. I use my polarising filter (to increase colour saturation) and graduated filter (to darken sky & clouds) and I think I've got the shot. With my drone I cover some extra angles. Then I move closer to the lake, and as I do the clouds come in and suddenly the light is gone, the sky is dark and the rain is falling again. There's no shelter up here and I'm getting drenched. Luckily, I think I got to the lake just in time for the shot earlier.
As I start to head back, I have a look for the second lake that was mentioned in the email I received. I see Bartonny Lough with the sun reflecting off it and rain clouds above. I take some shots with my long lens. Think they will work well in black and white, with dramatic contrasts of light and dark, and the sky reflecting off the lake.
Before I begin the descent, I stop at a rocky ledge and look down over the epic views. It really is stunning, and even more so knowing the effort it takes to get up here.
The descent is easier than the climb, and I'm down the steep face in no time. As the trek up around the small forest was pretty boggy, I decide to return by the other side of the forest. That route is along a river bank which becomes steep and dangerous so I cut through the forest clambering over fallen trees across the trek. The camera bag on my back doesn’t help but I get there eventually.
Out the other side and I make my way back down the mountain. This time I’m not worried about getting my boots wet as I'm soaked to up above my knees. Almost four hours after setting out, I get back to my car – glad of a change of clothes, a sandwich and drink – and content with two more lakes photographed.
I think back to the message I got to encourage me to go on this trek ‘...it’ll be a nice bit of trekking for you’ - and indeed it was. A tough trek but with amazing views of this picturesque and unspoiled part of the world.
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