Curry queen to spice things up at Taste of Cavan
One of the hits of Taste of Cavan 2015, Anjula Devi will again feature on this year's billing for the two-day event in August. The London chef will be here to spice up the food-fest and break down some long-standing myths on authentic Indian cuisine.
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“I’m also going to be talking about heat in curries,” says Anjula Devi, “because there shouldn’t be any.”
Wo-wo-wo! Back up missy.
No heat in curries? That’s like saying there’s no spuds in Irish stew, or no spuds in boxty, or no spuds in spuds! Surely the whole point of curry is heat.
“There should just be a warmth at the back of your throat,” she insists in her mild London accent, “and I’m going to show you how to use chillies appropriately.”
The table plan at the banquet launch at MacNean House fortuitously plonked the Celt beside the queen of authentic Indian curries, Anjula Devi and hubby Andy Wilson. The chef who learned her culinary skills from her Dad was such a hit at last year’s Taste of Cavan the organisers were eager to have her back.
They were delighted to return due to how special they were made to feel in 2015. Andy fondly recalls how our host for today, Neven Maguire, under serious pressure, preparing for his live demo for the enormous Cavan Equestrian crowd, still went out of his way to offer Anjula a cup of tea - not ask someone else to make it, but to make the brew himself.
They were genuinely touched by the gesture. I confirmed that yes Neven is God’s answer to Bord Fáilte’s prayers - his world class talent is matched only by his generosity of spirit - and we were about to tuck into that generosity with yours truly and Andy devouring impossibly delicious monkfish main courses, while Anjula raved about her chicken dish.
Having been rudely interrupted by the best meal I’ve ever eaten, Anjula returns to heated debate of curry temperatures.
She believes that the molten lava that typically passes for curries on these shores are little more than caricatures of Indian food.
“Even chefs who come from India, and who have been classically trained in Indian food fall into the trap of thinking the British want this non-authentic Indian food,” she laments. “It’s not the higher end Indian restaurants, clearly they do a very good job of displaying what real Indian food is, but a lot of these takeaways, they sadly give us a very bad name.”
Also, contrary to many takeaway dishes, traditional Indian cuisine is very healthy. In fact Anjula is convinced of the medicinal power of the herbs and spices used in authentic Indian cooking, explaining that the she has never taken prescription medicine.
The Celt is shocked when the youthful appearing Anjula’s not in her 20s - she delights in telling us she’s 52, and is living proof of the elixir-property of spices.
Anjula, who runs a respected Indian cookery school and catering business, is eager to pass on “little tips that people don’t tell you about”.
“If you are cooking for an event and you have lots of people, some who like hot food and some who like mild food, what you do is pierce the chillies with a cocktail stick, you throw the chillies in whole, so at any time you can pull the chillies out. If you are putting a warmth in it, you can take the chillies out after about 15-20 minutes; if you want a really nice hot curry, you can continue cooking with them.”
“However, when it’s heated in oil or butter it gives the most sublime onion and garlic-y flavour. It’s a really good cheat because the longest part of cooking a curry is cooking down those onions.”
She’s looking forward to returning to Cavan again in August. “My role in Taste of Cavan is to bring a taste of spice,” Anjula smiles. “I’m going to destroy the myth about Indian food being complicated or difficult to make. I’m going to use just five spices to make three wonderful curries.” And they might just take years off you!
2016 Taste of Cavan takes place in Cavan Equestrian Centre on August 12-13. For more, see: tasteofcavan.ie